Shabbat Shalom and chag samayach. Welcome to “Kitchen Talk,” the weekly food blog of the CJR. Tonight is Erev Sukkot; the week-long holiday, also known as the Feast of Tabernacles, commemorates the years the Jewish people spent in the desert after the exodus from Egypt and celebrates God’s protection during that time.
Usually, eating outdoors is a novelty, but Sukkot this year will be a continuation of what many of us have been doing for most of the summer due to the pandemic. Dining al fresco with family and friends has been a safe way to observe the holidays and special occasions during COVID.
Amy Stopnicki, the award winning cookbook author and food blogger (@amyskoshertaste; she has 17,000 followers) said that many of the dishes she serves on Sukkot utilize seasonal produce.
“Sukkot is the beginning of the fall harvest and ‘thanks giving,’” she said. “Traditionally I serve a ‘thanks giving’ dinner. I’m very much into the seasonal foods.”
While her sukkah can accommodate 15-20 people, she’ll be hosting fewer people this year. “The guests will be limited, but I’ll be maintaining the tradition.”
With COVID, Stopnicki, said she does not serve food on big platters, family style, when she invites people outside her immediate family.
“I’m plating the food and bringing it out on individual plates. I want everyone to be comfortable. I also think individually plated meals are more festive.”
She said she usually includes a side of green vegetables, like green beans or Brussels sprouts, to balance the fall colours on the plate (green, she pointed out, is a complementary colour.) Stopnicki created a calendar with 13 recipes and 14 photographs for Savours Fresh Market.
She is generously sharing three of her favourite Sukkot recipes here: Maple Glazed Turkey Breast and Pumpkin Loaf can be found in her award-winning cookbook Kosher Taste: Plan Prepare Plate. The Pomegranate Salad recipe is on her Web site, amystopnicki.com.
MAPLE GLAZED TURKEY BREAST Amy Stopnicki
½ cup (125 ml) maple syrup ½ cup (125 ml) plum sauce ¼ cup (60 ml) canola oil 1 red onion, thinly sliced salt and pepper to taste 1-2 lbs (500–1000 g) turkey breast, bone-in, skin-on
Preheat the oven to 325°F (165°C).
In a mixing bowl, combine the maple syrup, plum sauce, oil, onion, salt and pepper. Pour the mixture over the turkey breast and let it marinate at room temperature for 30–40 minutes.
Transfer the turkey to a baking pan and cover. Bake in the preheated oven for 2½ hours. Remove the cover and continue cooking for another 30–40 minutes, basting every 10 minutes or until the top of the turkey is golden brown. Let cool before slicing. Makes 6 servings.
MULTIGRAIN POMEGRANATE SALAD Amy Stopnicki
2/3 cup (200 ml) cooked quinoa 2/3 cup (200 ml) cooked brown rice 2/3 cup (200 ml) cooked lentils 1/3 cup (100 ml) pomegranate seeds 1 cup (250 ml) roasted sweet potatoes, cut into ½ inch (1½ cm) cubes 4 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tbsp (30 ml) olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large bowl combine the quinoa, brown rice, lentils, pomegranate seeds and garlic. Add the olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Makes 4–6 servings.
Shabbat Shalom and Chag Samayach. Welcome to “Kitchen Talk,” the weekly food blog of the CJR. Rosh Hashanah begins this evening and I would imagine that many readers have already prepared most of the special dishes they’ll be serving this weekend.
With COVID looming large throughout the country, preparing and serving holiday meals will entail safety logistics. I’ll still be celebrating the holiday with my siblings and their children, as we do every year, but we’ll be eating outdoors.
There will be no chicken soup this year but we’ll still be eating brisket, as is customary. In this issue, I’ll be sharing American celebrity chef Michael Solomonov’s recipe for Coffee Braised Brisket, which people may want to try on Sukkot.
Chef Solomonov, author of the award-winning cookbook Zahav: A World of Israeli Cooking, did a Rosh Hashanah food demo for Israel Bonds’ Chef’s Table last week.
I attended three virtual Jewish communal events with Solomonov this summer. Despite winning seven prestigious James Beard Foundation Awards, the culinary equivalent of the Academy Awards, Solomonov is very gracious and humble about his success.
Mangoes have been very plentiful this summer so I am including, cookbook author Daniella Silver’s recipe for FreshMango Salad. It’s a quick and simple recipe and a perfect side dish for a holiday supper or lunch. The recipe comes from Silver’s first book, The Silver Platter: Simple to Spectacular Wholesome Family Recipes, co-written with the late, great food maven, Norene Gilletz.
It’s not too early to think about Break Fast dishes for Yom Kippur. Award-winning food author Amy Stopnicki of Kosher-Taste fame has generously shared her recipe for Spinach Feta Quiche. Follow Stopnicki @amyskoshertaste on Instagram.
MY MOM’S COFFEE BRAISED BRISKET Michael Solomonov
2 tbsp (30 ml) finely ground coffee 1½ tbsp (20 ml) ground cardamom 1½ tbsp (20 ml) ground black cardamom 1 tbsp (15 ml) plus 1 tsp (5 ml) kosher salt 1 brisket (first cut, about 4 pounds (2 K) ¼ cup (60 ml) canola oil 2 large onions, sliced 4 carrots, peeled and sliced 10 garlic cloves, sliced 1/3 cup (90 ml) tomato paste 1½ cups (375 ml) dried apricots 2 cups (500 ml) brewed coffee 8 large eggs in their shells Grated fresh horseradish
Two days before serving: Mix the ground coffee, cardamom, black cardamom, and salt in a small bowl and rub into the brisket. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
One day before serving: Preheat the oven to 475°F (245°C). Set a rack inside a roasting pan. Put the brisket on the rack and roast until the exterior has browned, about 20 minutes. Lower the oven temperature to 300°F (150°C).
Warm the oil in a large skillet over medium heat and add the onions, carrots, and garlic. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables have softened but not browned, about 8 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook until it reduces slightly, about 2 more minutes. Transfer the vegetables to the roasting pan with the rack removed. Add the brisket, dried apricots, brewed coffee, and eggs in their shells.
Add enough water to bring the liquid halfway up the side of the brisket. Cover the pan tightly with two layers of foil, return to the oven, and braise for 1 hour.
Remove the eggs, gently tap them all over to make a network of small cracks, and return them to the braise. Continue cooking until the brisket shreds easily with a fork, about 3 more hours.
Let the brisket cool in its braising liquid, then refrigerate overnight.
To serve: Preheat the oven to 350°F (189°C). Slice the cold brisket, return to the braising liquid, and bake until warmed through, about 30 minutes. Spoon the broth over the meat.
Serve with the peeled eggs and grated fresh horseradish. Makes 8 servings
FRESH MANGO SALAD Daniella Silver
5 ripe mangoes, peeled and cut into long narrow strips ½ cup (125 ml) thinly sliced red onion ½ cup (125 ml) chopped fresh parsley 2 tbsp (30 g) chopped fresh basil
¼ cup (60 ml) extra virgin olive oil ¼ cup (60 ml) lemon juice (preferably fresh) 1 tbsp (15 ml) brown sugar or honey ½ tsp (3 ml) kosher salt, or to taste Freshly ground black pepper
In a large bowl, combine mangoes with the red onion, parsley, and basil.
Dressing: combine dressing ingredients in a glass jar; seal tightly and shake well.
Add the dressing to the sliced mangoes and onions and mix well. Cover and refrigerate until serving time. Makes 6–8 servings
SPINACH FETA QUICHE Amy Stopnicki
6 eggs ½ cup (125 ml) milk 1 cup (250 ml) grated mozzarella cheese 3 cups (750 ml) baby spinach, cleaned and checked, chopped 1/3 cup (90 ml) feta cheese 1/3 cup (90 ml) pine nuts salt and pepper to taste 1 ready-to-bake frozen deep dish pie shell
Preheat oven to 350°F (150°C).
In a large mixing bowl, combine the eggs, milk, cheese, spinach, feta cheese, pine nuts, salt and pepper. Pour the mixture into the frozen pie shell.
Bake for 35– 45 minutes or until set. Makes 6–8 servings
An occasional series on how Jewish-owned restaurant and food operations in Canada are faring during the pandemic.
Community Spotlight is an occasional “Kitchen Talk” feature on how Canadian Jewish food entrepreneurs and chefs are faring during COVID. The pandemic has hit many restaurants and other food businesses very hard.
This week, we shine a light on Lev Levine, 30, owner of the popular restaurant, Lox + Schmear at 1030 St. Clair Ave. W. in Toronto, which is offering its in-house smoked fish despite COVID.
You could call the St. Clair West-Oakwood Ave. area in Toronto “Bagel Central,” as there are three bagel businesses located near each other: Lox + Schmear (1030 St. Clair Ave. W.); What a Bagel! (827 St. Clair Ave. W.) and the Primrose Bagel Company (317a Oakwood Ave.)
Lev Levine, 30, owner of Lox + Schmear, set up the first of the three bagel shops in this mid-town Toronto neighbourhood, now home to a large number of young Jewish families.
It was three years in June that they opened their shop, Levine said in a recent telephone interview.
Asked about the close proximity of their competitors, Levine replied with a laugh, “As long as people are eating bagels lox and cream cheese, I’m happy. Of course, I’m happiest when they choose my product.”
Lox + Schmear specializes in small batch fish smoking, they said.
“All the fish is smoked in house. It’s the freshest smoked salmon you’ll ever have. It’s really our specialty. We do the whole process. It’s all hand-sliced. There are no additives or preservatives, no artificial flavouring or colourings.”
Before the pandemic, Lox + Schmear was a popular neighbourhood hub known for its loaded cream cheese and lox sandwiches, served on Montreal-style bagels. Levine also offered soups and salad, but the smoked salmon was “king,” they said.
While Levine is no longer preparing their famous bagel sandwiches, they’re selling all the ingredients so their customers can make their own.
Along with bagels and cream cheeses, there’s an impressive selection of hot smoked salmon and trout options, as well as Levine’s ever popular house-smoked lox and pastrami-cured smoked lox.
Levine takes orders during the week and the clientele pick up their food on Sunday mornings.
“It’s been going quite well,” they said. “It gave people a sense of comfort when the pandemic started that we were doing all the [food] prep in a safe and thoughtful way.”
Levine grew up eating bagels, lox and cream cheese and this was their preferred dish for breaking the Yom Kippur fast.
Sept. 22, 2 p.m.: On Lox and Life: The Forward is sponsoring a conversation about all-things-appetizing with Len Berk, the last Jewish lox slicer at Zabar’s, and Melissa Clark, the New York Times food writer and cookbook author. This talk will be moderated by Jodi Rudoren, editor-in-chief of the Forward https://forward.com/culture/452758/september-22-on-lox-and-life/
Shabbat Shalom and welcome to Kitchen Talk, the CJR’s weekly food blog. It’s hard to believe that Rosh Hashanah is less than one month away. Erev Rosh Hashanah falls on September 18.
It may be time to try out some new dishes for the High Holidays, but the pandemic may determine how we serve the meal and the type of dishes we prepare. We still have to be extra mindful of health and safety for any family get-togethers.
COVID certainly affected our Passover seders back in April. There were no dinner guests. In fact, the first seder was my introduction to Zoom.
At the time, social distancing was a relatively new experience. Now it’s a way of life, but at our home, we have eased up. My kids usually visit on Sunday and we eat dinner on the backyard deck.
We have had a few larger family get-togethers – all outdoors – for special occasions. I actually hosted a small wedding in my backyard.
We were very COVID-conscious for the simchah. The bride wore a beautiful white dress with a matching mask. We all wore masks and the intermingling of families was kept to a minimum.
We also served the food very carefully. Everyone got an individually boxed meal. It was beautifully presented, but simple.
I also recently attended a backyard birthday party. People arrived in shifts and every person received a box of party tidbits. It worked out well.
Now my siblings and I are hoping to celebrate Rosh Hashanah together with our children and grandchildren. We’ll all be outdoors and wearing masks. We’ll probably group in nuclear family units. For past celebrations, we set out the various mains and side-dishes on a table, and people served themselves. There will be no buffet this year. My sister and I will be plating or boxing the meal, which has yet to be planned.
I’m starting to experiment with dishes that might work for a holiday boxed meal. I’m thinking that a grain dish can easily be served in individual reusable containers. It can also look festive.
This weekend, I’m going to make Amy Rosen’s Kasha Pilaf, a modern take on the traditional dish. The recipe comes from her book, Kosher Style: Over 100 Jewish Recipes for the Modern Cook.
I’m also going to prepare Balsamic Mushroom Salad, a recipe from another Amy. It’s from Kosher Taste: Plan Prepare Plate, by Amy Stopnicki @amyskoshertaste. The mushrooms can be served warm or at room temperature.
Of course I’ll have to try a dessert. The recipe for Chocolate Tahini Cookies looks really yummy. The recipe can be found in Tamara Green and Sarah Grossman’s book, The Living Kitchen: Healing Recipes to Support Your Body During Cancer Treatment and Recovery.
Cookies can easily be packaged and included in a boxed holiday meal. I can’t say the same for brisket.
KASHA PILAF – Amy Rosen
4 cups (1 L) vegetable stock 2 cups (500 ml) kasha 1 small bunch of kale, fibrous veins removed 1 cup (250 ml) walnut pieces 1 tbsp (15 ml) olive oil 1 small red onion, thinly sliced 4 cups (1 L) button mushrooms, stemmed and quartered ¼ cup (60 ml) chopped dill Juice of one lemon Sea salt and pepper to taste 1 tsp honey
In a medium pot, bring the vegetable stock to a boil, then add the kasha. Bring the kasha back to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer for 10 minutes or until it is cooked. Fluff the kasha with a fork, then tip it into a large bowl to cool.
Rinse the pot and add about 1 cup of water. Bring it to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and add the kale. Cover the pot with a lid and steam for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the kale is tender. Drain and chop the kale and add it to the big kasha bowl.
Wipe out the pot and toast the walnut pieces over medium heat for 3– 4 minutes, or until slightly browned. Add the nuts to the kasha. Drizzle the olive oil into the pot and sauté the red onions over medium heat for 5 minutes, then add the quartered mushrooms and cook for about 15 minutes more. Add the onion and mushrooms to the kasha, along with the chopped dill, lemon juice, salt, pepper and honey. Serve warm. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
BALSAMIC MUSHROOM SALAD – Amy Stopnicki
5 large Portobello mushroom caps, cleaned, checked and finely diced ½ pound (250 g) white mushrooms, cleaned, checked and finely diced 5 cloves of garlic finely chopped 2 shallots, finely diced ¼ cup (60) ml olive oil ½ cup (125 ml) balsamic vinegar Salt and pepper to taste
Preheat oven to 400°F (200°C)
Combine the mushrooms, garlic, shallots, oil, and vinegar in a roasting pan. Season with salt and pepper. Bake for 25–30 minutes or until the mushrooms have shrunk to half their size. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool. The mushrooms can be served warm or at room temperature. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
CHOCOLATE TAHINI COOKIES – Tamara Green & Sarah Grossman
1 large egg 1½ cup (125 ml) tahini ½ cup (125 ml) blanched almond flour ½ cup (125 ml) coconut sugar ½ tsp (2½ ml) baking powder One 3.5 oz (100 g) dark chocolate bar – 70% or higher – coarsely chopped ¼ tsp (1 ml) coarse sea salt
Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C) and line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
In a medium-sized bowl, mix together the egg, tahini, almond flour, coconut sugar, and baking powder. It will make a thick, sticky mixture. Fold in the chopped chocolate.
Scoop about 1 tbsp (15 ml) of batter and place it on the baking sheet. Continue to do this, spacing each cookie about 2½ inches (10 cm) apart, until you have used all of the dough. If you prefer a larger cookie, scoop 2 tbsp 30 ml) per cookie.
Sprinkle cookies with the coarse salt. Bake in the oven for 8–9 minutes, watching carefully because they can burn easily. They should be just lightly browned on top. Let cool for 10 minutes on the baking sheet. Then transfer to a plate or container for storage. Makes 14 cookies
The cookies can be stored in a cool place in the pantry for two days or in the fridge for one week.
Barbara Silverstein is a Toronto-area journalist and an award-winning food writer. She was a long-time contributor to The Canadian Jewish News. Her articles have also appeared in Homemaker’s Magazine, The Toronto Star, The Globe and Mail, and Tablet Magazine.