Nov. 27, 2020
By BARBARA SILVERSTEIN
Shabbat Shalom and welcome to “Kitchen Talk,” the weekly food blog of the CJR.
When COVID struck, Carolyn Tanner Cohen, founder of the Delicious Dish Cooking School, had to reinvent her business. She had been running her popular cooking school from her home.
She was able to build an online following and has made the transition to a virtual cooking school.
On Dec. 3, she’ll be doing a fundraiser for Grandmothers Partnering with Africa (GPWA), part of the international Grandmothers Campaign of the Stephen Lewis Foundation.
The campaign provides financial support for millions of African grandmothers who are raising their grandchildren. They have been orphaned because their parents died of HIV/AIDS.
Participants in the GPWA fundraiser with Tanner Cohen will be making Moroccan Spiced Lentil Barley Soup and Cauliflower Fritters with Dukkah, along with other recipes inspired by North African flavours.
This week’s recipes range from exotic to everyday. Tanner-Cohen’s Marinated Crispy Tofu with Sriracha Tahini encompasses a range of international flavours.
Lea Zeltserman is a Russian-born, Toronto-based writer specializing in Russian food and Russian-Jewish issues and culture. On Dec. 6, she will lead a virtual cooking workshop on how to make rassolnik (Russian pickle soup). See Culinary Calendar below for details.
I tried to match Ashkenazi dishes that resemble some of the Russian foods described by Zeltserman. The Food Processor Bible by the late Norene Gilletz was my source. Her Easy Cottage Cheese Pancakes are very similar to Russian syrniki. Zeltserman said buckwheat groats are a Russian staple so I have also included Gilletz’s recipe for Kasha Knishes.
Zeltserman may have spent only two years of her life in her native Russia, but her knowledge of the traditional foods of her homeland is extensive.
She said many dishes considered to be Jewish in North America are the familiar Russian foods of her childhood. “I grew up eating Ukrainian or Russian borscht…This food is part of my Soviet Russian heritage, not my Jewish one.”
There’s a lot of overlap between Russian and Ashkenazi Jewish foods, she noted, except the Jewish roots of these dishes, like those of other cultures, were “stripped away” during the Soviet era. “That government was anti-religious.”
For instance, Russian Jews eat a chopped liver-style paté. She said it’s hard to know if these dishes were originally Russian or if were borrowed from Jewish cuisine and “Sovietized.”
She pointed out that Russians have a preference for sour tastes like sour pickles and sauerkraut. The rassolnik (pickle soup) was originally made with beef kidney, but Zeltserman uses stewing beef. “It’s a very adaptable recipe. If I have beef bones I use them. Any sour pickle will do.”
Kasha, she explained, means porridge in Russian. The buckwheat-groat dish referred to as kasha in North America is called grechka in Russian. “In my house we always had a pot of buckwheat on the stove… It was a staple.”
Soft cheeses like farmer’s or cottage cheese are frequently consumed by both Ashkenazi Jews and Russians, Zeltserman said. “I often make syrniki or cottage cheese pancakes for my kids.”
One of her favourite meals is blinchiki, thin crepe-like pancakes that resemble cheese blintzes. Instead of cheese, however, blinchiki are stuffed with ground chicken, she said. “They are amazingly delicious!”
MARINATED CRISPY TOFU WITH SRIRACHA TAHINI Carolyn Tanner Cohen
1 block (about 350 g) firm or extra firm tofu
2 tbs (30 ml) neutral oil like grape-seed or sunflower
¼ cup (60 ml) low sodium soy sauce or tamari
1 cup (250) water
2 tsp (10 ml) garlic powder
¼ cup (60 ml) toasted sesame seeds
¼ cup (60 ml) wheat germ
½ tsp (2 ml) garlic powder
½ tsp (2 ml) kosher salt
Pinch of black pepper
2 tbsp (30 ml) tahini paste
1 tbsp (15b ml) lemon juice
1 tsp (5 ml) sriracha, more to taste
Ice water to thin
Pinch or two of kosher salt
Cut the tofu into 1–2-inch (2–5 cm) cubes.
Combine the tamari or soy, water and garlic powder in a flat dish. Lay the tofu cubes in dish, marinate
(turning occasionally) for 10 minutes up to 6 hours.
Combine the sesame seeds, wheat germ, garlic powder, salt and pepper in the bowl of a food processor.
Process until the seeds have broken down and a breadcrumb-like texture is formed.
Heat a large fry pan over med-high heat. Add the oil. Coat each piece of marinated tofu in the sesame
seed mixture. When the oil is hot, pan fry the tofu cubes until each side is golden brown.
Sriracha Tahini: In a medium size bowl and using a whisk, mix together the tahini, lemon juice, sriracha and 2 tbsp (30 ml) ice water. The consistency should be similar to ketchup. As you add the lemon and water, the tahini will thicken at first, thin it with additional water. Taste for flavour, it should be spicy with a hint of lemon. Add more water to achieve the desired consistency.
Serve the tofu as is or over rice or noodles. Drizzle the Sriracha Tahini or use it as a dip.
EASY COTTAGE CHEESE PANCAKES Norene Gilletz
1 cup (250 ml) of firm cottage cheese, (farmer’s cheese style, basically a fresh white cheese)
¼ cup (60 ml) sour cream
1 tbsp (15 ml) melted butter or margarine
½ cup (125 ml) flour
¼ tsp (1 ml) salt
½ tsp (2 ml) baking powder
½ tsp (2 ml) ground cinnamon
A combination of oil and butter for frying
Combine all the ingredients in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process until fairly smooth, about 20–25 seconds.
Melt about 1 tbsp (15 ml) of oil and butter in a large skillet. When it bubbles drop the cheese mixture from a large spoon into the skillet. Brown on medium heat until it becomes golden. Flip the pancakes and brown on the other side. Repeat with the remaining cheese mixture, adding more oil and butter as necessary. Makes 2 dozen pancakes.
KASHA KNISH Norene Gilletz
1 large onion, halved
2 –3 tbsp (30 ml) oil
1 cup (250 ml) coarse or medium kasha (buckwheat groats)
2½ cups (750 ml) boiling water or chicken soup
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup (60 ml) oil
¼ cup (60 ml) warm water
¼ tsp (1 ml) salt
1 tsp (5 ml) baking powder
Egg wash (Optional): 1 egg mixed with 2 tbsp water
Flaked sea salt (Optional)
Preheat the oven to 350°F (170°C) and place parchment paper on a sheet pan.
Dough: Fitting the food processor with a steel blade, process the eggs, oil, water until mixed, about 5 seconds. Add the remaining ingredients and process just until blended, about 8 seconds. Do not over-process the dough or it will become tough. Let the dough stand while you prepare the filling.
Filling: With the steel blade process the onion with 3 or 4 quick on-off pulses, until it becomes coarsely chopped.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and sauté. Add the kasha and brown, stirring often. Then add the boiling liquid to cover the onions and kasha. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and simmer for 8–10 minutes, until the water is absorbed. Let cool.
Assembly: Divide the dough into 2 pieces and the filling in half. Working with 1 piece of dough at a time on a floured surface, roll out the dough as thin as possible into a rectangle. Starting 1 inch from the edge, place half the filling in a mound along the longer side of the rectangle.
Roll up the ends and place on the prepared baking pan with the seam side down. Brush with egg wash (if using) and sprinkle with sea salt.
Bake in the preheated oven for 35 minutes. Yields 2 rolls, each making 12 slices
Dec. 3, 5:00 p.m.: Cook Global Cuisine with Carolyn Tanner-Cohen, sponsored by Grandmothers Partnering with Africa, Stephen Lewis Foundation. Email:GPWafrica@gmail.com
Dec. 6, 3 p.m.: Dec. 6 at 3 p.m. Lea Zeltserman will be leading a virtual cooking workshop for Russian Pickle Soup, through Building the Jewish& Cookbook, presented by the Miles Nadal JCC. https://www.facebook.com/events/192408629142347
Dec. 8, 7:30 p.m.: Latkes and Vodka Workshop with National food columnist and author, Bonnie Stern, and Rabbi Elyse Goldstein. Virtual cooking demo for latkes, cocktails and dessert. To register: https://www.cityshul.com/form/latkes-vodkas.html
Dec. 8 & 9 Shoresh Chanukah Markets: Place advance orders for beeswax Chanukah candles, Chanukah Miracle Bundle, Bela’s Bees Raw Honey and other sustainable natural products. Pick up locations south of St. Clair on Dec. 8, north of St. Clair on Dec. 9. https://shop.shoresh.ca/
Dec. 22 1:00 p.m.: Ashkenazi Jews and Chinese Food Lecture presented by YIVO Institute for Jewish Research. Andrew Coe, author of Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States, traces the history of Ashkenazi Jews’ affinity for Chinese food from the turn of the century to today. To register: https://secure2.convio.net/yivo/site/Ticketing?view=Tickets&id=102421